Ibn Battuta's Travels: Persia and Iraq

A Land Conquered by the Mongols

About 100 years before Ibn Battuta's travels, the Mongol Invasion led by Genghis Khan's grandson Hulagu, had been a nightmare of violence for the peoples of Persia and Iraq. "With one stroke," wrote a Persian historian of the time, "a world which billowed with fertility was laid desolate, and the regions thereof became a desert, and the greater part of the living dead, and their skin and bones crumbling dust; and the mighty were humbled..."  "The Mongols wreaked death and devastation wherever they rode from China to the plains of Hungary, but nowhere more so than in Persia, where most of the great cities were demolished and their inhabitants annihilated. "The total population of this area may have dropped temporarily from 2,500,000 to 250,000 as a result of mass extermination and famine." In 1258, the Iraqi city of Baghdad was captured and the caliph put to death, bringing the Abbasid Caliphate rule to an end.

When Ibn Battuta arrived in the region nearly a century later, Persia and Iraq were still suffering from the devastating effects of the Mongol Invasion, particularly on its economy and agricultural prosperity. But Ibn Battuta also witnessed positive aspects of Mongol rule on Persian culture. After the Mongols converted to Islam, they became patrons of Persian art and learning. One example can be seen in the observatory at Margheh in which Persian and Chinese scholars collaborated to work out astronomical tables of great importance. The master historian of the age was Rashid al-Din, a Jewish convert to Islam who wrote a Collection of Histories, the first truly universal history of mankind ever written embracing all of Islam, China, Byzantium, and western Europe. Chinese cultural influence is also found in Persian miniature painting, calligraphy, and textile and pottery design.

On Nov. 17, 1326, Ibn Battuta left Mecca and joined a caravan of pilgrims in an official caravan of the Persian state. He was treated to a half of a "double camel litter" by a rich official who was impressed with Ibn Battuta's learning and friendly personality. 

Baghdad

Ibn Battuta continued on with other traveling companions and arrived at Baghdad, the one-time capital of the whole Abbasid Empire. But Baghdad had been destroyed by the Mongol Invasion. He had gone there to honor its past and walk among the ruins, imagining the ghosts of those who had lived in the once magnificent capital city with a population of about a million people. "Her outward lineaments have departed and nothing remains of her but the name ... There is no beauty in her that arrests the eye, or summons the busy passer-by to forget his business and to gaze." [Ibn Jabayr in Dunn, p. 97.]

But it wasn't as bad as that. The Mongols had left many of the public buildings standing and quite a few of its people alive. In fact, Hulegu's army had barely finished sacking the place when he ordered that a restoration program should begin. But Baghdad was no longer an important stop on a Middle Eastern tour. Even though most colleges were in ruins, one college built in 1227 (over one hundred years before Ibn Battuta's visit) was still operating. It has since been restored and is still open.

Bath Houses in Baghdad

Ibn Battuta told of hospitality shown to him. One courtesy to the traveler was to take him/her to a hamam (public bath house). Ibn Battuta describes several fine bath houses in Baghdad. (Cleanliness was encouraged by the Qur'an and it was a duty of every Muslim to be as clean as possible.) To the left is a bath house that has been redecorated, but was in existance at Ibn Battuta's time. Men wore towels around their waists, had two for drying, and brought a small pail with them to hold water. A servant sometimes helped bathe the visitors. Most bath houses had both hot and cold water.

In Baghdad, Battuta jumped at an opportunity to meet the Il-Khan, the Mongol leader of the Il-Khanate who had converted to Islam. After an agreeable meeting, he continued with the royal caravan for ten days, and then decided to join a part of the caravan that was going north to Tabriz, one of the most important cities in Persia - the first capital of the Il-Khans. With the advance of the Mongol army, the inhabitants of Tabriz had been wise enough to welcome them into their city without a fight. Tabriz became the capital of the conquering army. This city had become an important place along the Silk Road with colonies of people from Venice, Genoa, and other European countries as well as Armenians, Arabs, and even Chinese traders. There were also several Christian churches there. This international city was one of the greatest centers of learning and culture during the 14th century after the Mongol Invasion.

In Baghdad, the governor showed him charity by giving him a camel litter. He was expecting an easy return trip, but unfortunately on the way he again became sick with diarrhea. During the long journey he had to get down from his litter many times a day. By the time he got to Mecca, he was very weak.

Ibn Battuta needed a rest. In a year he had traveled more than 4,000 miles, crossed mountains and deserts, visited most of the great cities of Iraq and western Persia, met scholars, saints, judges, and even a Mongol king. After about one year in Mecca where he led a life of prayer, fellowship, and learning, he was ready to travel again.

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