Ibn Battuta's Travels: The Red Sea and Africa's Swahili Coast

After Ibn Battuta had lived and studied in Mecca for about one year, he started another adventure. From Mecca, he went to Jidda on the Red Sea coast where he and other pilgrims were crammed onto a small ship.

This was Ibn Battuta's first time at sea travel and he probably wasn't looking forward to it. The Red Sea was not easy to navigate with coral reefs and rocks just under the waterline. Storms were common, as were pirates who waited patiently for ships with rich travelers to rob and kill. Ships were weak in a storm - made of wooden planks that were stitched together with cords. Moreover, the winds could keep the sailboats from reaching their destinations. Truly the travelers' lives were in the hands of God. "We traveled on this sea with a favoring wind for two days, but thereafter the wind changed and drove us off ... course... The waves of the sea entered in amongst us in the vessel, and the passengers fell grievously sick." Eventually the ship had to head for shore, and fortunately Ibn Battuta and the other seasick passengers were able to rent camels and continue south on land.

After a brief stay in Taiz, he continued down to the coastal city of Aden which guards the entrance to the Red Sea. Aden was a city built in the crater on an extinct volcano with the eastern side exposed to the sea. The harbor was surrounded by stone walls and sea gates for protection. Aden charged a tariff or tax on all the goods that came through this port. Ships brought spices, medicinal herbs, dyes to color cloth, iron, steel, Indian silks and cottons, pearls, cowrie shells (which were used for money in Africa), Chinese pottery, African ivory, fruits and lumber.

From Aden, Ibn Battuta decided to have another adventure before settling down to a permanent job - down the coast of East Africa this time. The weather conditions were right for the trip, and it was easy to get on a dhow sailing south. A large dhow usually had a crew of thirty to hoist the sails and turn the sails into the wind. Smaller dhows were used along the coast with only one triangular sail. Ships could travel during the winter months south with the monsoon winds. Then in the summer the winds reverse direction and ships could easily travel north.

Settlers from Arabia and the Persian Gulf first introduced Islam into the little ports and fishing villages along the coast when they came to trade. The great majority of immigrants were males who married into local families. In Kilwa one family took control of the trading and gold markets from Zimbabwe. This family became very wealthy. They ate off Chinese porcelain, wore silk garments, and had indoor plumbing! Look at the ruins of the palace in which they lived.

Ibn Battuta tells us several times that he was given or purchased slaves. He also tells us very briefly how slaves were taken and given as gifts:

The Sultan of Kilwa was called 'the generous' "on account of the multitude of his gifts and acts of generosity. He used to engage frequently in expeditions to the land of the Zinj people [villagers of the interior], raiding them and taking booty [slaves and other wealth]... He is a man of great humility; he sits with poor brethren, eats with them, and greatly respects men of religion and noble descent." [Gibb, vol. II, pp. 380 - 381]

Kilwa was important as a trading city for gold and its citizens enjoyed a high standard of living. The ruling class lived in stone houses up to three stories high with indoor plumbing. Most of the population lived in mud-walled houses with thatched roofs.

Ibn Battuta probably prayed in the Great Mosque of Kilwa which is now in ruins (below).

Ibn Battuta stayed in Kilwa about two weeks and with the changes in the monsoon winds, the ship changed direction and went north. A month later he was back in South Arabia. From here he decided on another short adventure - this time to take a small ship to the Gulf of Oman. Because he disliked the crew of his ship, Ibn Battuta and a friend decided to continue to Qalhat on foot. This decision almost cost them their lives! A guide that they hired plotted to kill them and take their clothes and valuables. Fortunately, Ibn Battuta was carrying a spear and was able to control the wouldbe robber and finally - after becoming sick and thirsty and walking with swollen, bloody feet - they arrived at Qalhat. Here they stayed with the governor for six days and recovered.

From Qalhat, Ibn Battuta probably continued to the Straits of Hormuz. In the bazaars he observed busy markets with merchandise from India and Persia, and along the coast he saw pearl fishing boats.

Ibn Battuta was thinking about a return trip to Mecca - his third visit. Traveling mostly by land now, he reached Mecca in the winter of 1330. After tiring sea voyages, climbing high mountains in Yemen, traveling across the equator and through the hottest places on earth, and almost losing his life, he was looking forward to a long rest with his Koran and his law books.

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